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By Eddy · Soffit & Fascia Specialist ·
Florida has three termite species — and drywood termites specifically target soffit and fascia. Here's how to identify an active infestation before it eats through your entire roofline.
Florida has the highest termite pressure of any state in the continental US — and Central Florida sits in the middle of it. Three species are active here: subterranean termites (ground-based, attack from below), Formosan termites (extremely destructive subterranean species), and drywood termites — the species most likely to be in your soffit and fascia.
Drywood termites (Incisitermes snyderi and Cryptotermes brevis) don't need contact with soil. They infest dry, exposed wood — which makes roof components, soffit boards, fascia, and attic framing their primary targets. Unlike subterranean termites, they can live entirely inside a single piece of wood without ever touching the ground.
According to the University of Florida IFAS Extension, drywood termites account for hundreds of millions in structural damage in Florida annually. Soffit and fascia are particularly vulnerable because they're constantly exposed to sun, rain cycles, and humidity — conditions that weaken wood finishes and make penetration easier.
Critical: Never Repair Soffit Over an Active Infestation
Installing new aluminum or vinyl soffit over active termite damage does not solve the problem — it seals the colony inside and gives them a protected environment to continue eating. Always treat and confirm elimination before any soffit repair work begins.
Drywood termite frass (droppings) looks like tiny pepper flakes or coffee grounds — hexagonal pellets about 1mm long. They accumulate in small piles below the infested area: on windowsills, on the ground near exterior walls, or on the top of your gutters. Unlike subterranean termites that pack droppings into tunnels, drywood termites push frass out through tiny kick-out holes. Finding this is a confirmed active infestation — call a pest company the same day.
Tiny holes — about 1/16 inch in diameter — in painted or stained wood soffit. Drywood termites create these exit holes specifically to push frass out. They're easy to miss because they're very small and often plugged with fecal material. Run your hand along the soffit and look for slight rough patches. On painted surfaces, look for small paint bumps.
Tap along your soffit and fascia boards with your knuckle. Solid wood sounds dense. Termite-damaged wood sounds hollow — a dull, empty thud rather than a solid knock. This indicates the interior galleries have replaced the structural wood fiber. Significant hollow areas mean the board has lost much of its structural integrity and must be fully replaced, not patched.
Bubbling, blistering, or peeling paint on fascia boards — without obvious moisture source — can indicate termite activity below. Termites create heat and moisture as they digest wood, which forces paint to separate from the surface. This symptom alone is not definitive (moisture can cause the same effect), but combined with any frass or hollow sounds it strongly suggests active infestation.
Alates (winged termites) swarm from mature colonies in spring — typically March through May in Central Florida. If you see large numbers of winged insects near your roofline, soffit, or attic vents during daylight hours, your home has an established colony. Swarming means the colony is mature enough to reproduce — the infestation has been active for at least 3-5 years.
Getting this order wrong is the most expensive mistake homeowners make. We've been called to replace soffit that was installed by other companies over active termite damage — within 18 months the new material was compromised because the colony survived underneath.
Get a WDO (Wood-Destroying Organism) inspection from a Florida-licensed pest control company. They'll identify species, map the extent of infestation, and recommend treatment. Required before any repair can be quoted accurately.
Drywood termite treatment options include localized spot treatment (liquid or foam injected through kick-out holes), heat treatment, or whole-structure fumigation (tenting) for heavy infestations. Your pest company determines the right approach. Do not begin repairs until you have written confirmation of treatment completion.
All termite-damaged wood must be completely removed — not just the surface material but the substrate and any backing boards. Replacement should use aluminum or vinyl soffit and aluminum-wrapped or PVC fascia — materials termites physically cannot eat. No wood should remain exposed at the roofline.
After repair, schedule annual WDO inspections. Central Florida's termite pressure doesn't go away after one treatment. Most pest companies offer annual contracts that include soffit and fascia inspection as part of a broader home pest program.
Metal cannot be eaten by termites. The professional choice for post-termite repair. Also hurricane-rated and moisture-proof — the right choice for Florida.
Plastic cannot be eaten by termites. A cost-effective option for post-treatment replacement. Not recommended for areas with high thermal stress.
Cement-based materials are not eaten by termites. HardieSoffit has Florida Product Approval. More expensive than aluminum but excellent durability.
Any natural wood soffit, OSB backing, or wood substrate is susceptible. After a termite event, do not reinstall any wood-based product at the roofline.
The clearest sign is frass — small hexagonal pellet-shaped droppings below the roofline or on windowsills. Other signs: tiny kick-out holes in painted wood, hollow sound when tapping the soffit, bubbling or peeling paint on fascia, and termite swarmers near the roofline in spring (March–May).
Always treat first, then repair. Installing new soffit over an active infestation gives termites a fresh food source. The sequence: (1) licensed inspection and treatment, (2) confirmation of elimination, (3) full replacement with aluminum or vinyl. Never use wood soffit after a termite event.
Aluminum and vinyl are 100% termite-proof — termites cannot eat metal or plastic. Fiber cement is also highly resistant. Any natural wood product remains vulnerable. After treatment, always replace with aluminum or vinyl.
We work with the sequence — no repairs until treatment is confirmed. Get an inspection and repair quote from us today.